Chain Tools
October 8, 2010 – 12:38 pm | No Comment

Welcome to ChainTools.com where you’ll find all of the Chain Tools you can’t find anywhere else. No matter what your needs are you will be able to find the right products, accessories, colors and brands …

Read the full story »
Decorating & Remodeling

Do It Yourself (DIY)

Engineering

Hobbies & Crafts

Motorcycles

Home » Cycling

Why is my chain slipping on my cycle bike?

Submitted by on March 17, 2009 – 3:06 am11 Comments
chain tools
PATRICK C asked:

I have just replaced my chain on my Marin hawk hill and the chain is slipping, I’ve placed the chain alongside the old one and made it the same size and upto now I’ve removed about 8 links using the propper tool, the chain feels ok when I’m in low gear ” biggest cog on the rear” but when I’m putting strain on the peddle and using the smallest cog’s “7th, 8th and 9th gears” it’s slipping like mad, do I need to take more links off?
Thank’s to everyone, I’ve been looking up more info on the web and also taken on board what you’ve all said, I’ve set up the gears and got the correct lenght of chain and it’s still poppin off the small cogs so the only thing to do now is replace the cassette. Can anyone tell me what I’ll need ie, tools and what sort of cassette and how to get the ****** off.. The bike is a 9 speed Marin Hawk hill???

11 Comments »

  • deedee says:

    probly you put it on wrong or you broght the wrong size

  • phil the rum drinker says:

    It`s not tight enough , adjust your deraliar, or take a link out…

  • Moose says:

    Sounds like it to me.

  • MrOrph says:

    Ur going to have to size the chain so that it is taught on the highest gears and still large enuf for the lowest gear of largest cog. I know, it can be frustrating, but it is a matter of tweaking.

  • frisbee45uk says:

    i think you need some links taking out of the chain needs to be tight,xx

  • Sparky says:

    Adjust the back wheel, by pulling it backwards until the chain tightens.

  • Madrider says:

    I have the same problem right now only on a road bike. Check the chainrings in the front or cogs as some people know them. They could be worn out. If the teeth on the cogs are worn, it can cause slippage. Check the cassette too. You might have to replace both. Usually when I buy a new chain I replace the cassette too.

  • ashypoo says:

    If its actually slipping and you’ve made sure its got the correct number of links, then chances are the teeth are worn on the gears that are affected.

    Its also possible that the derailleur is actually phantom shifting, which can feel like slipping, and occurs mainly when you apply a lot of pressure to the chainset, such as when you’re in higher gears or riding up a steep hill.

    If its this, then you need to adjust the derailleur/s so that they have the correct alignment, then your chain will stay where you expect it to be.

  • MadMonkey says:

    As long as the chain is close to the length of the old one it should work. You should probably replace the cassette. If the derailleur is working properly, a chain that is too long will not cause this problem.

    Chains and cogs wear together. When you replace just the chain, the new chain has less wear on the rollers so they are actually larger than the old ones. The new rollers on the chain don’t mate porperly with the worn teeth and will skip, _especially_ when you put power to the pedals. It will be most noticable in the smaller cogs, and the ones that you use most often. FWIW, in 25 years I have never had a largest rear cog that skipped, It’s always been the smaller ones.

  • Roman H says:

    As a racing cyclist I learned this lesson years ago.New chain means new block otherwise it will slip.Your existing block will have worn with the old chain so the new chain now slips on it.

    ask any good cycle shop they will confirm this.

  • cyclepro says:

    check the shifting “ramps” on the inside of the front rings- if worn they can cause your chain to slip under pressure.
    It is also advisable that when you change your chain, you service the whole drive train at once, since they all wear together. The parts sort of blend into one another, so when you just change one thing the cog may not exactly matte with the chain 100% of the time. Change At least the back cog and the chain, if the front rings look worn them to. ($$)
    If you service your chain and cog all the time the same you can save your front rings from excessive damage.
    Sounds like you need 9 spd shimano. For tooth range just count the small one and the biggest ring in the cog.
    Also check CABLE TENSION of all front and rear Der.
    good luck

Leave a comment!

Add your comment below, or trackback from your own site. You can also subscribe to these comments via RSS.

Be nice. Keep it clean. Stay on topic. No spam.

You can use these tags:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

This is a Gravatar-enabled weblog. To get your own globally-recognized-avatar, please register at Gravatar .